THE BOHO DISTRICTToday’s Bohemian Fashion Trend Has Uptown Appeal
For years, the word “bohemian” conjured up a decidedly downtown image. Today, that same word paired with a rather unexpected one defines a pervasive, yet upscale, trend in modern fashion: chic. “We’re seeing the influences of Bohemian Chic on all the runways and in all the top magazines,” attests Linda DeFranco, women’s wear trend forecaster with Cotton Incorporated. “It’s a global yet earthy look, and it’s certainly more refined than anything we’ve seen in recent years.” “Bohemian Chic is all in the detailing and styling,” relates Joanne Stoner, founder of Edressme.com, an online destination for fashionable garments. “It’s a look that is very chic and sophisticated for right now.” So just what are these heralded bohemian favorites that resonate with today’s female shopper? “Tiered peasant skirts, longer tunics, kimono style tops, fuller pants and skirts,” Stoner notes. “Boho Chic is an eclectic mix of ethnic and vintage-feel items,” asserts Tracy Reese, who designs an eponymous collection in addition to the Plenty line, which is sold at upscale stores. Agrees Wenlan Chai, designer of Twinkle, a New York-based fashion collection, “Modern Boho is an interesting mix. It’s a fascinating interpretation of things that are familiar but new.” Familiarity is a good thing when it comes to apparel shopping for one in three women. According to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™, 36.3% of female respondents said that they planned less changes in their apparel in the coming months. This figure is up six percentage points from the 30.3% of women making that claim a year earlier. “For most women, the Bohemian Chic trend allows them to pull items that they’ve known and loved, and incorporate them into their current wardrobes,” DeFranco explains.“That’s trulyimportant to today’s fashion, yet value-oriented, consumer.” Skirts are certainly one staple that seem to be making a statement this season. Notes designer Reese, “Long skirts are free and easy, and have a relaxed yet exotic feeling.” Anna Lamstein, manager of Sybele, a boutique in midtown Manhattan, adds, “Skirts in all colors, particularly white, seem to be important. Our customers are coming in asking for skirts along with dresses for everyday wear. It’s all about things that are very feminine.” The skirt truly seems to be reclaiming its importance in women’s wardrobes in the last year-and-a-half. According to the Monitor, in the first half of 2004, skirts displaced other bottomswear categories. Among the major retail channels, department, specialty and chain stores posted double-digit growth in unit sales (17.5%) and dollar sales (13.7%) for skirts. Forecasts Stoner, “Look for fuller skirts to be important.” A fuller cut will also apply to other silhouettes as well, say fashion experts. “There’s definitely a more generous silhouette for this season,” Cotton Incorporated’s DeFranco shares. “Trousers are relaxed and the hem is slightly flared in a boot-cut fashion. There's a fuller leg, even in capris. They look more like a culotte or a gaucho.” Silhouettes aside, there would be no discussion of Bohemian Chic without the word “natural.” “Even accessories have a natural feel, like the cotton espadrille,” Stoner reports. And of course, garments will also be predominantly created from natural fibers. According to the Monitor, 61% of female respondents said they were willing to pay more for natural fibers such as cotton. Stoner adds, “I love a crinkle cotton blouse with a tiered soft peasant skirt; a very natural look.” DeFranco also points out the cotton top’s importance in boho fashion. “You can buy a couture cotton blouse in almost any color, and easily work that into your existing wardrobe for an updated feel.” And look for colors to play an important role in this trend as well. Shares trend forecaster DeFranco, ”We have a collection of colors we call ‘Travel Hybrid,’ which encompass all of the colors you see occurring in the natural world: burnt oranges, greens and deep browns.” Chai from Twinkle adds the influence of colors from the ocean and semi-precious stones on Boho fashion. “There are shades of teal blue to sea blue; we are also using variations of burgundies and greens, along with rich chocolate browns,” she reports. Prints also take center stage, which lends a global, yet still natural feel to the Bohemian Chic trend. Adds Chai, “We’re seeing prints with trees, birds and flowers.” “There are plenty of earthy prints like batiks and other ethnic prints that evoke Africa and India in fashion,” relates DeFranco. Reese agrees, “Definitely India and Africa, but there is an Asian influence as well, and we’re mixing it in with our traditional Western pieces.” However, prints and colors don’t stand alone. “There’s plenty of embellishment,” Reese continues. “But it’s not glitzy or sparkly, it’s more refined.” According to Twinkle’s Chai, “All the beading, embroidery and motifs are Russian influenced, which gives it a more exotic and easy feel.” And just because the word “bohemian” appears in this trend, the look is anything but thrown together or sloppy. “It’s very studied,” asserts Lamstein, the boutique manager. “Women are very carefully pulling this look together.” Although designer Reese loves the Bohemian Chic look, she hesitates to call it the trend-of-the-moment. “I like to think of it as one of those things that’s not a trend but my style,” she says. “Sometimes it’s stronger than others, like now, but it’s always timeless.”
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This story is one in a series of articles based on findings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ tracking research. Each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes and behavior regarding clothing, appearance, fashion, fiber selection and many other timely, relevant subjects.
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