WHAT DUE IN DENIMJeans re-invent themselves for the coming season
Fashion maven Kendall could easily be called a “Jean Queen.” With over a dozen pair of jeans in her closet that she swears she truly does wear, she keeps an eagle eye out for the next item to join her beloved collection. “There really is a jean for every occasion,” asserts Kendall. “Or is that an occasion for every jean?” And while Kendall’s penchant for denim may sound as if it borders on the extreme, her denim quests are shared by nearly one in two women, according to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™. Forty-eight percent of women confided to the Monitor that they don’t need any more denim, but would likely buy one or two new items. An additional 26% said they would probably buy several items. Well, it looks as if the majority is in luck. There are a bevy of new styles and collections slated for the coming seasons that promise to tempt and engage the denim loving population. “It’s simple. If you’re going to spend the money and buy new jeans, they’re going to have to be special,” declares Stacey Bendet, designer and co-owner of Alice and Olivia, a two-year-old fashion collection that just launched a denim line in spring 2003. Bendet sees a large movement in novelty denim, which will serve to woo the masses. Pay key attention to the waistband, says Bendet. “This spring and summer, there are ribbon and accented waistbands. For fall, look for leather. Keep an eye out for some slight embellishment in the form of grommets. At Alice and Olivia, we added some corsetting at the waistband, which is a very feminine look. It’s about slight but important details that update the jean.” It’s most definitely about the details, echo the designers behind uber-brand Juicy Couture. “Coming up for fall 2003, Juicy Couture focuses on fun, intricate detailing and novelty jeans. Zipper, ribbon and back pocket detailing are other highlights of our denim line,” shares Pamela Skaist-Levy. Her partner, Gela Taylor adds, “Pam and I have created a full line of denim including amazing new shapes and unique detailing from stretch to rigid denim.” And look for that waistline to have definition this fall, offers Lynn Cohen, owner of Runway Boutique in the Flatiron district of Manhattan. And when asked about which denim silhouette will make its mark in the coming months, she replies, “Those with a fitted waist.” And with regard to that waist, just where will the rise be resting? “A little bit higher than we’ve been seeing in past seasons,” Cohen predicts. “Women will have the options to tuck their tops in or out.” And working downward, Cohen also adds that shoppers can look forward to “a narrower leg, a little more stovepipe than flare.” Slim is most definitely in, confirms Kathy Brady, weekend manager at Reminiscence, a retailer with locations in New York and Tokyo. The stores, which carry a wide variety of vintage and vintage-inspired apparel items, expect to sell many jeans from the 1970s and ‘80s for fall. “Some customers are wearing jeans extremely tight, just as we did originally,” she observes with a touch of nostalgia. She points to vintage Sergio Valente and Gloria Vanderbilt jeans as notable silhouettes for current day chic. And just how blue will consumers be feeling, or rather, will there be a dominating hue in the coming season? Not necessarily. While designer Bendet sees dark blues and indigos as important, Runway Boutique’s Cohen also sees earth tones as integral to trendy denim looks for fall. “We’re seeing a greenish cast over denim washes,” she adds. “Colored denim is interesting to our customers,” says Reminiscence’s Brady who anticipates a continued drive for faded denim. “Women also love a vintage, nicely worn look.” And finally, Juicy Couture’s Taylor concedes, “Each season, we introduce new washes to our denim line, and for fall 2003 we were inspired by the punk era. We love mixing rock n’ roll glamour with luxury basics.” The fact that denim colorations will range across the board is also good news to consumers, who seem to fall somewhere in the middle with regard to desired denim hues. In the first quarter of 2003, 41% of women told the Monitor that medium blue would be their choice for their next denim purchase, an increase from 35% a year earlier. For women, denim is about a lot of different things, but looking good is the ultimate common denominator, which feeds that continual quest for the next best thing. “I think women are on a constant search for the perfect fitting jeans. They want jeans that will accentuate their best features and minimize those they want to draw less attention to. Women love denim because it is so transitional,” relates Juicy’s Skaist-Levy. And it’s that love that keeps Skaist-Levy and Taylor inspired. Teases Taylor, “We’ve got some surprises for spring 2004 that we are so excited about –but you’ll have to wait and find out!” So look for innovation and novelty in denim in the coming months to keep this perennial apparel favorite high on the list of fashion must-haves.
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