Womenswear Articles       2/12/2004

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AllWomenMenHome  Eco-fashion Print This Page “While preppy may be considered a trend now, it’s really more of a classic style.” - Darlene Brinker, Lilly Pulitzer ENJOY PUSHING FASHION TO LIMITS Females 16-70 2002 2003 Agree 27% 26% Disagree 71% 74%

PREP SCHOOL

In The Preppy Handbook, the popular tome which defined Eighties style, author Lisa Birnbach extols the virtues of wearing pink and green, the importance of the right outerwear and the significance of monogramming.

This spring season, it looks as if women may be once again turning to these same pages for a clue to style trends. “Spring is a preppy season in general,” shares Lauren Moffatt, who along with her business partner Rob Pepin, owns and designs the Lauren Moffatt collection. “I think of tennis skirts, cotton sweaters, wrap skirts, little cotton tee shirts and flip flops.”

“While preppy may be considered a trend now, it’s really more of a classic style,” notes Darlene Brinker, director of marketing for Lilly Pulitzer, a brand intimately intertwined with the term ‘preppy chic.’ “Women are continually attracted to it for its ease of wear.”

Confirms Sean Krebs, spokesperson for Gap, “Preppy chic is a truly American way of dressing. Women love it because it is both classic and comfortable. Preppy chic conjures up images of great American film icons such as Katherine Hepburn or Grace Kelly. Since Gap is such an iconic American brand, the preppy look is definitely a part of our vocabulary.”

The preppy look supercedes trend, agree fashion insiders. “Preppy pieces are really wardrobe staples if you think about it,” considers Kim Kitchings, director of market research and planning for Cotton Incorporated. “Women love it because it’s fashionable yet safe.” She points to data from the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle MonitorTM; only 13% of female consumers considered themselves on the cutting edge of fashion. Twenty-six percent considered themselves quicker than most to adopt new styles, while 33% of women considered themselves slow to change, and 25% admitted to rarely changing.

And as the saying goes, when you find a good thing, why not stick with it? “Preppy represents the good life; it connotes a positive outlook,” shares Pulitzer’s Brinker. “It’s fun and attractive.”

Key pieces that dominate the preppy wardrobe year in and year out include polo shirts, cardigan sweaters, capri pants, cotton tees, shift dresses, pleated skirts and coordinating accessories. “Coordination is key to preppy style,” says Kathryn Novakovic, Cotton Incorporated director of fashion marketing, referring to the bright pink and green palettes and unique patterns, like the infamous whale print, that prepsters seem to own in multiples. “There are little cotton handbags and tennis shoes and socks that work back to apparel and complete the look.”

So what differentiates 2004 preppy chic from other seasons? “There’s an even more upbeat play with color and pattern,” relates Nicki Gondell, president of Trend House, a forecasting firm in New York.

“Gap’s colors for spring are soft and feminine,” notes Krebs, “including milkshake pink, watercolor green and light blue. Gap also keeps the silhouettes slim and closer to the body to make the look fresh.”

Lilly Pulitzer is incorporating additional palettes to its preppy mainstays of pink and green. “There are purples and blues and yellows and oranges; the colors this spring are bright, vibrant and fresh,” Brinker shares.

Color in apparel is another important issue for women. “Our research shows that women tend to favor neutrals in their basic wardrobes,” Cotton Incorporated’s Kitchings shares. “But they will step out with the occasional accent piece in a seasonal color.” There is a caveat though. “The trendy colors of the season are irrelevant to a woman if she doesn’t think that she looks good in them. Staying true to what works best for them is the driver.” Case in point: 87% of female consumers told the Monitor they preferred to wear colors that looked good on them rather than the “in” colors of the season.

There are other important modernizations to the classics as well. “Gap has updated some key preppy classics for the upcoming spring season. The cropped trench, shrunken piqué polos and fitted stretch cardigans with three-quarter sleeves are part of Gap’s modern approach to preppy wardrobe staples.”

Adds Lauren Moffatt with regard to her collection, “We developed an entire cotton gauze group that consists of adorable smocked sundresses, skirts with needlepoint waistbands and camisoles with drawstring waistbands. We also showed a great little pleated mini with an oval pocket and gold button.”

Natural and light fabrications play an important role in the step to dressing prep. “Natural fabrics like cotton voile and gauze always dominate our spring/summer delivery. Without being conscious of it, I think we always incorporate a bit of preppy chic into our spring collection. We use a lot of cotton. It carries prints well, and it’s also cool and simple to wear. Cotton gives the air of being uncomplicated yet aspirational.”

And with the good life, comes the willingness to pay for it. Fifty-eight percent of women confided to the Monitor that they were willing to pay for more for natural fibers such as cotton.

And it’s likely if women buy well, particularly in the classic preppy style, they are making an investment in a piece that can yield dividends for years to come. As designer Moffatt sees it, “I love the timeless aspect to spring clothes. I think there is nothing better than seeing a 75-year-old woman whose skirt I wish I owned!”

This story is one in a series of articles based on findings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ tracking research. Each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes and behavior regarding clothing, appearance, fashion, fiber selection and many other timely, relevant subjects.